When Is the Best Time of Day to Treat Whiteflies Naturally?

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What Makes Whiteflies So Sensitive to Treatment Timing?

Whiteflies are cold-blooded (ectothermic) insects, which means their body temperature and their ability to move, feed, and reproduce is entirely dictated by the surrounding air temperature. They cannot regulate their own body heat, so they depend entirely on warm air to become active.

According to UC IPM Program research, whiteflies become sluggish and less mobile at temperatures below 65°F (18°C), making them far easier to contact with a spray. Between 75 and 85°F (24 to 29°C), whitefly activity reaches its peak, with feeding, flying, and reproduction running at maximum rate. Above 90°F (32°C), the risk of phytotoxicity from oil and soap-based natural sprays increases sharply.

Two California-relevant whitefly species follow this same temperature-activity pattern: Bemisia tabaci (the silverleaf whitefly, the primary California species) and Trialeurodes vaporariorum (the greenhouse whitefly). Both species respond identically to thermal thresholds, which means the timing guidance in this article applies to both.

The whitefly life cycle moves through four stages: egg, crawler (first-instar nymph), fixed nymph instars 2 through 4, and adult. Adult whiteflies fly away when disturbed, but nymphs and eggs are stationary. The time of day you spray directly affects which life stage your treatment can reach most effectively.

What Is the Best Time of Day to Spray Whiteflies Naturally?

The day divides into four treatment windows: morning, midday, afternoon through evening, and night. Each carries different implications for treatment success.

The answer is not simply “morning is always best.” The right window depends on the specific natural product you are using, the current temperature, and the time of year. The subsections below break each window down precisely so you can match your conditions to the correct recommendation.

Early Morning (6 AM to 10 AM): The Gold Standard Treatment Window

Early morning is the single best time to treat whiteflies naturally, and for reasons that go well beyond “it’s cooler.” Temperatures in most California regions during early morning hours are typically below 75°F (24°C), placing whiteflies firmly within their sluggish, low-mobility zone.

Natural sprays including neem oil and insecticidal soap remain wet on leaf surfaces long enough to make effective contact before heat causes rapid evaporation. Wind speeds are also statistically lowest in early morning, which is critical for even spray coverage and minimizing drift. According to UC IPM guidelines, calm conditions under 5 mph provide the most reliable foliar spray application.

The UV index is low before 10 AM, meaning azadirachtin (the active compound in neem oil) degrades significantly more slowly than it does at midday. The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) confirms that azadirachtin breaks down rapidly under direct UV light, losing significant potency within 30 to 45 minutes in full sun.

Bees are typically not yet actively foraging before 8 AM, which is an important pollinator-safe application window. Leaves are also typically dry from overnight, meaning spray is not diluted by surface moisture.

The recommended specific window is between 6:30 AM and 9:30 AM for optimal conditions.

Midday (10 AM to 4 PM): The Window to Avoid

Midday treatment is the most common mistake home gardeners make, and it is one of the primary reasons natural sprays appear to “not work” on whiteflies. Two compounding problems occur simultaneously at midday.

First, rapid evaporation: natural sprays like neem oil and insecticidal soap require sustained wet contact with the insect to work. In temperatures above 85°F (29°C), spray droplets evaporate before completing this contact. Second, phytotoxicity risk: heat combined with oil or soap residue on leaves creates a concentration effect that essentially burns leaf tissue. Thin-leafed plants including basil, squash, and tomatoes are particularly vulnerable.

California’s inland regions, including the Sacramento Valley, Inland Empire, and San Joaquin Valley, frequently reach 95 to 105°F (35 to 40°C) by late morning in summer. This makes even “late morning” a problematic treatment window in those areas.

Early Evening (5 PM to 8 PM): The Strong Secondary Option

Early evening is an excellent second choice when morning treatment is not possible, with one important consideration that many gardeners overlook. Temperatures drop back into the effective range (below 80°F / 27°C) in most California regions after 5 to 6 PM, and whiteflies begin to slow their activity as temperatures cool.

UV light intensity drops significantly after 5 PM, extending neem oil’s active window. However, sprays applied at dusk remain wet on leaves overnight. In high-humidity climates or during periods of prolonged leaf wetness, particularly along coastal California where marine layer returns overnight, this can create favorable conditions for fungal diseases including powdery mildew and botrytis.

Evening application is most appropriate in dry inland climates, during low-humidity periods, or when using insecticidal soap (which dries completely and does not create the same fungal risk as oil-based sprays). The recommended specific window is between 5:30 PM and 7:30 PM to balance temperature benefit with enough drying time before nightfall.

Bee foraging typically ends by 7 to 8 PM depending on season, making this window safe for pollinators when spraying is confined to foliage only.

How Do Temperature, Humidity, Wind, and Weather Affect Natural Whitefly Treatment Timing?

Time of day is only one dimension of effective treatment timing. Four environmental variables interact to determine whether your natural spray will work: temperature, humidity, wind speed, and weather conditions including cloud cover and rain.

A “wrong” time of day on a cool, cloudy morning may actually outperform a “right” time on a hot, breezy morning. The subsections below break down each variable with specific thresholds so you can make a real-time treatment decision based on actual conditions.

Temperature: The Most Important Variable in Whitefly Treatment Timing

Temperature controls both whitefly mobility and spray chemistry simultaneously. The table below provides a clear decision framework for any conditions you encounter.

Humidity: The Underappreciated Timing Factor

High relative humidity (above 70%) slows spray evaporation, keeping natural spray droplets wet on leaf surfaces longer. This is a measurable benefit for contact-kill products like insecticidal soap, which requires sustained wet contact with the insect body to disrupt cellular membranes.

However, high humidity combined with oil-based sprays left overnight increases fungal disease risk on vulnerable plants including tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers. Very low humidity (below 30%) accelerates spray evaporation dramatically, even at acceptable temperatures. In these conditions, adding a very small amount of surfactant, such as a single drop of liquid castile soap per gallon, helps spray adhere longer to leaf surfaces.

California’s coastal morning marine layer creates a natural high-humidity window that can extend spray effectiveness. Treating during or just after the marine layer burns off (typically 8 to 10 AM) captures both the humidity benefit and the low-UV advantage of early morning.

Wind Conditions: Why Calm Mornings Are Best for Natural Whitefly Sprays

Wind causes spray drift, meaning you lose product, coverage becomes uneven, and the undersides of leaves where whitefly eggs and nymphs concentrate receive inadequate coverage. Above 10 to 15 mph, spray application becomes significantly less effective. Above 20 mph, treatment should be postponed entirely.

Mornings are statistically the calmest part of the day in most California regions. Sea breezes and valley winds typically increase from mid-morning onward, which is another scientifically grounded reason why early morning outperforms later windows.

Cloud Cover and Rain: Can You Treat Whiteflies on a Cloudy or Rainy Day?

Overcast days can actually extend the effective treatment window beyond the typical early morning or evening constraint. Cloud cover reduces the UV index, which significantly slows azadirachtin degradation in neem oil. Cloud cover also keeps ambient temperatures lower, expanding the acceptable spray temperature range throughout the day.

A cool, overcast day with temperatures below 80°F (27°C) and calm winds is ideal for natural whitefly treatment regardless of the specific hour. This is the “any-time” exception to the morning and evening rule.

Natural sprays are water-soluble and rainfall will wash them off leaves within minutes of application. Wait at least 24 hours after rain before treating, to allow foliage to dry completely. If rain is forecast within 24 hours of your planned treatment, postpone unless using kaolin clay, which is a water-resistant physical barrier that requires reapplication only after heavy rain. Reapply after any rainfall exceeding 0.5 inches.

Does the Type of Natural Whitefly Spray Affect the Best Time to Apply It?

Most timing guides treat all natural sprays as interchangeable. They are not. Neem oil, insecticidal soap, garlic spray, and diatomaceous earth each have different chemical properties, modes of action, and sensitivities to environmental conditions, which means their optimal timing windows vary.

This section provides product-specific guidance so you can calibrate your treatment timing to the exact product you are using, rather than relying on generic advice that may underperform for your specific situation.

Neem Oil: The Most Timing-Sensitive Natural Whitefly Treatment

Neem oil’s active compound, azadirachtin, degrades rapidly under UV light exposure. The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) documents significant breakdown within 30 to 45 minutes in direct sunlight, making neem oil the most timing-sensitive of all natural whitefly treatments.

The optimal application window is before 9:30 AM or after 6 PM, and earlier in the morning is always better than later. Do not apply when temperatures exceed 85°F (29°C) or fall below 50°F (10°C), as emulsification becomes unreliable below that lower threshold.

The standard dilution ratio is 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of neem oil concentrate per gallon (3.8 L) of water, plus 1 teaspoon of liquid castile soap as an emulsifier. Shake or stir the sprayer continuously during application because neem oil settles and separates in solution.

Always select OMRI-listed cold-pressed neem oil, which contains the highest azadirachtin concentration. You can find quality options by searching for OMRI-listed cold-pressed neem oil concentrate. When applied under correct conditions (below 75°F / 24°C, low UV index), neem oil residual activity lasts 3 to 5 days on leaf surfaces.

Insecticidal Soap: Less UV-Sensitive but Still Temperature-Dependent

Insecticidal soap, made from potassium salts of fatty acids, kills whiteflies by direct contact. The soap must coat the insect’s body to disrupt cellular membranes and cause suffocation, so contact time is everything.

Unlike neem oil, insecticidal soap does not degrade under UV the same way, making it slightly more flexible in timing. However, it still requires temperatures below 85°F (29°C) to prevent rapid evaporation and plant burn.

The optimal window mirrors neem oil: early morning (6 to 10 AM) or early evening (5 to 8 PM). A key advantage over neem oil is that insecticidal soap dries completely and leaves no oily residue, making evening application significantly more appropriate for soap than for neem oil in humid or coastal climates.

The standard dilution is 2 to 4 teaspoons per gallon of water. More is not better and increases phytotoxicity risk. Reapply every 5 to 7 days for active infestations. You can find appropriate products by searching for insecticidal soap concentrate for whiteflies.

Garlic Spray and Homemade Natural Sprays: Follow the Same Rules as Soap

Homemade garlic spray, hot pepper (capsaicin) spray, and similar natural preparations work primarily as repellents rather than contact killers. They make the plant environment inhospitable to whiteflies rather than directly killing them.

Timing guidance mirrors insecticidal soap: apply in early morning or early evening when temperatures are below 80°F (27°C). Capsaicin sprays should be applied in the morning so they dry completely before pollinators become active, as wet capsaicin spray is a contact irritant to bees.

A reliable garlic spray recipe is to blend 4 to 6 cloves of garlic with 1 quart (approximately 1 liter) of water, strain the mixture, and dilute at a 1:10 ratio before applying to foliage. Reapply every 5 to 7 days or after any rain event. For another timing-sensitive option that some gardeners combine with garlic spray, lavender oil and vinegar-based solutions follow similar dilution and application-window principles.

Diatomaceous Earth and Kaolin Clay: Timing-Independent Physical Barriers

Diatomaceous earth (DE) and kaolin clay are physical barrier treatments that work mechanically rather than chemically, making them far less sensitive to time-of-day constraints than liquid sprays. DE works by abrading the waxy outer coating of whitefly nymphs and adults, causing desiccation. Apply it as a dust to dry leaf surfaces on calm mornings when leaves are dry. Reapply after rain or irrigation.

Kaolin clay creates a physical particle coating on leaf surfaces that deters whitefly feeding and egg-laying. It is more rain-resistant than DE or liquid sprays and is particularly valuable in hot climates where liquid spray timing is chronically difficult to achieve.

What Is the Best Time to Treat Whiteflies on Indoor Houseplants Naturally?

Indoor plant owners face a unique challenge: the morning and evening timing advice for outdoor gardens does not translate directly to living rooms, apartments, or grow-light setups. The key variables shift from outdoor temperature and UV index to indoor ventilation and grow-light schedules.

The primary recommendation for indoor plants is to treat in the morning when windows can be opened for ventilation. Neem oil has a strong sulfurous smell that disperses much better with airflow, and morning ventilation allows this to happen before windows are closed at night.

Avoid treating directly under grow lights. The heat and UV output from high-intensity grow lights creates conditions similar to outdoor midday sun, accelerating spray evaporation and increasing phytotoxicity risk. Move plants away from grow lights or turn the lights off before applying any spray.

Insecticidal soap is preferable to neem oil for indoor use for two reasons: it produces no persistent odor after drying, and it dries completely without leaving an oily residue that could attract dust or promote mold in enclosed spaces.

If your home is consistently between 68 and 72°F (20 to 22°C), the temperature timing concern is reduced for indoor plants. Focus instead on ventilation and grow-light exposure timing. Allow sprayed plants to dry completely before returning them to grow-light environments.

Common indoor houseplants susceptible to whitefly infestations include hibiscus, fuchsia, poinsettias, and tropical foliage plants. These plants respond well to properly timed insecticidal soap applications.

How Does the Whitefly Life Cycle Determine When Your Treatment Will Actually Work?

Treating whiteflies at the right time of day matters, but treating at the right stage of their life cycle determines whether you break the population cycle or keep fighting indefinitely.

The four-stage life cycle progresses from egg (hatching in 6 to 10 days depending on temperature, according to Oregon State University Extension research) to crawler (the first-instar nymph, which is the only mobile nymph stage and the most vulnerable to contact sprays) to fixed nymph instars 2 through 4 (protected by a waxy coating that repels contact sprays) to adult.

Natural contact sprays including neem oil and insecticidal soap are most effective against adult whiteflies (mobile but slow when cool temperatures prevail), first-instar crawlers (before their waxy coating develops), and eggs (neem oil specifically disrupts egg development via azadirachtin). They are least effective against late-stage nymphs in instars 2 through 4 because the waxy coating physically repels the spray before it can make contact.

A single application, even perfectly timed, cannot kill all life stages at once. Treating on a 7 to 10 day cycle, timed to catch newly hatched crawlers from eggs that survived the first treatment, is required to break the population cycle. In California summer heat above 85°F (29°C), eggs may hatch in as few as 5 to 6 days, tightening the reapplication interval to every 5 to 7 days.

In my experience working with California home gardeners dealing with peak summer infestations of B. tabaci, I consistently find that gardeners who commit to three full treatment cycles at the correct morning window see population collapse within 3 to 4 weeks. Those who treat once or twice and stop, regardless of how good their timing was, almost always report reinfestation within two weeks.

How Do You Treat Whiteflies Safely When Bees and Pollinators Are Active?

Protecting pollinators while treating for whiteflies is not just possible — it is straightforward when you understand the timing principle involved. Neem oil and insecticidal soap are considered low to moderate toxicity to bees when dry. The primary risk is wet spray contacting foraging bees during or immediately after application.

Bee foraging activity follows a predictable daily schedule. Bees begin foraging around 7 to 8 AM in warm weather (earlier in peak summer), reach peak foraging activity between 10 AM and 4 PM, and end foraging between 6 and 8 PM depending on light and temperature. The safe treatment window for pollinators is therefore before 7 AM or after 7 to 8 PM.

Never spray open flowers directly, regardless of timing. Neem oil and soap residue on flower surfaces can harm bees that land on treated blooms. Spray only foliage, directing coverage toward leaf undersides where whitefly nymphs and eggs concentrate.

The UC IPM Program recommends treating flowering plants only in the evening or early morning to protect pollinators, and this guidance aligns precisely with the optimal treatment windows already recommended in this guide for other reasons.

For gardeners using biological controls, Encarsia formosa parasitic wasps should be released in the early morning on cool days (optimal release temperature is 68 to 77°F / 20 to 25°C) when they are least likely to disperse immediately. For a thorough comparison of which beneficial insects control whiteflies most effectively in home garden settings, including Encarsia formosa, Eretmocerus spp., and predatory insects like ladybugs (Hippodamia convergens) and lacewings (Chrysoperla spp.), the release timing principle is the same: early morning in mild conditions.

What Should You Do When Ideal Treatment Conditions Are Never Available?

In California’s hottest climates, or for gardeners whose schedules simply do not allow 6 AM spray sessions, whitefly infestations can feel unmanageable. The following decision framework provides a practical path forward regardless of your constraints.

I have helped gardeners in the San Joaquin Valley deal with this exact problem. When summer temperatures routinely hit 100°F (38°C) before 9 AM, liquid sprays simply are not viable. The passive and physical methods below have consistently delivered measurable population reductions in those conditions.

1. Check temperature first. If temperatures are under 85°F (29°C), proceed with liquid sprays in the morning or evening window. If temperatures consistently exceed 85°F throughout the day, skip liquid sprays and move to steps 3 through 5.
2. Check UV index and wind speed. If the UV index is under 5 and wind is under 10 mph, treat with neem oil. If the UV index exceeds 5 or conditions are windy, switch to insecticidal soap (less UV-sensitive) or postpone to the next suitable window.
3. Deploy passive physical methods. Yellow sticky traps hung at plant canopy height capture adult whiteflies passively around the clock, with no timing requirement. Reflective silver or metallic mulch placed at the soil surface around plants confuses whiteflies navigating by light reflection. Research cited by UC IPM Program shows reflective mulch can reduce whitefly landing rates by up to 50% on vegetable crops.
4. Apply kaolin clay. Apply as a spray in early morning on a calm day. Kaolin clay provides multi-week physical barrier protection even in extreme heat and is significantly more rain-resistant than liquid natural sprays. Reapply after heavy rain events exceeding 0.5 inches.
5. Release biological control agents. Encarsia formosa parasitic wasps can be ordered from reputable biocontrol suppliers and released in early morning on mild days. Once established, these natural enemies work continuously against whitefly populations without any dependence on your spray schedule or daily conditions.
6. Use physical water blast removal. A focused hose nozzle used to physically dislodge whiteflies from leaf undersides in early morning is effective, free, and has zero timing constraints. This technique also disrupts population density significantly when done consistently before liquid spray treatment.

An imperfect treatment at a non-ideal time is nearly always better than no treatment when populations are growing. Use the best available window and compensate with increased application frequency.

How Does the Season Affect the Best Time to Treat Whiteflies Naturally in California?

California’s diverse climate means whitefly season, population peaks, and optimal treatment windows shift significantly from spring to fall. The “best time of day” adjusts accordingly across each season.

Spring (March through May): Whitefly populations are establishing first-generation colonies, making this the ideal window to intervene early and limit population growth before summer. Temperatures are generally mild (55 to 75°F / 13 to 24°C), so the morning and evening timing rule is less critical because temperatures remain moderate throughout more of the day. Morning application is the default best practice, but early afternoon (before 2 PM) may still be acceptable if temperatures remain below 75°F (24°C).

Summer (June through September), peak whitefly season: Bemisia tabaci (silverleaf whitefly) populations peak between July and September in California, coinciding with maximum heat. In inland regions, temperatures exceed 90°F (32°C) by mid-morning, compressing the effective treatment window to 6 to 8:30 AM during extreme heat periods. UC IPM Program updates document an extended whitefly active season in California due to changing climate patterns, with populations now remaining active later into fall than in previous decades.

Fall (October through November): Temperatures moderate and treatment windows expand. Morning timing remains best practice but is less urgent as temperatures cool. Fall treatment of overwintering populations on perennial plants including hibiscus, lantana, and petunias is important for reducing spring establishment the following season.

Winter (December through February): Whitefly activity is minimal outdoors in most California regions during this period. Focus shifts to indoor and greenhouse plants where whitefly populations can persist year-round at stable indoor temperatures, and to monitoring rather than active treatment.

Frequently Asked Questions About Natural Whitefly Treatment Timing

Is it better to spray for whiteflies in the morning or evening?

Early morning (before 10 AM) is the preferred first choice for three compounding reasons: cooler temperatures slow whitefly activity and make them easier to contact, the UV index is lowest (protecting neem oil from rapid azadirachtin degradation), and winds are typically calmest. Early evening (after 6 PM) is an excellent alternative when morning treatment is not possible.

The key distinction is product-specific: if using neem oil in a humid climate or coastal area, morning is strongly preferred over evening because neem oil residue on leaves overnight in humid conditions can increase fungal disease risk. Insecticidal soap is safer for evening application because it dries completely.

What kills whiteflies instantly with natural methods?

No natural method provides truly instant kill, but insecticidal soap applied directly to adult whiteflies at close range (ensuring complete wet coating of the insect body) works fastest, typically disrupting the cellular membrane within minutes of direct contact. The key word is contact: the spray must coat the insect body while wet.

Applying in early morning when whiteflies are sluggish from cool temperatures significantly increases direct contact rate because they are less likely to fly away before spray reaches them. For fastest visible results, combine a morning water blast (to dislodge adults) immediately followed by insecticidal soap spray targeting remaining nymphs on leaf undersides.

What time of day are whiteflies most active?

Whiteflies are most active when temperatures are between 75 and 85°F (24 to 29°C), which in California typically means late morning through mid-afternoon (10 AM to 4 PM) during summer. This is precisely why it is also the worst time to spray: they are most likely to fly away from your spray before it makes contact, and temperatures in this range accelerate spray evaporation.

Treating when they are sluggish, in early morning when the combination of cool temperature and low UV index works most in your favor, produces reliably better treatment outcomes than attempting to spray active populations.

Does neem oil work on whiteflies, and when should I apply it?

Yes. Neem oil is one of the most effective natural tools for whitefly management, but its effectiveness is highly timing-dependent. Neem oil’s active compound, azadirachtin, disrupts whitefly hormone systems (preventing molting and reproduction), damages eggs, and repels adults. However, it degrades rapidly under UV light, losing significant potency within 30 to 45 minutes of direct sun exposure, according to NPIC data.

Apply neem oil strictly before 9:30 AM or after 6 PM. Use OMRI-listed cold-pressed neem oil at 2 tablespoons per gallon of water, emulsified with 1 teaspoon of liquid castile soap. Repeat every 7 days for three consecutive cycles to break the whitefly reproduction cycle.

How often should I spray neem oil for whiteflies naturally?

Apply neem oil every 7 to 10 days for at least 3 consecutive treatment cycles to effectively break the whitefly life cycle. The first application kills accessible adults and crawlers. The second targets newly hatched nymphs from eggs that survived the first treatment. The third catches the next generation before they reach reproductive maturity.

In California summer heat, when eggs hatch in as few as 5 to 6 days, tighten the interval to every 5 to 7 days. After three full cycles, shift to monthly maintenance treatments at the same morning or evening timing windows. Always reapply after any rain event exceeding 0.5 inches.

Can I spray whiteflies in the middle of the day if I use diluted insecticidal soap?

Only if temperatures are below 80°F (27°C). Even at diluted concentrations, insecticidal soap applied in temperatures above 85°F (29°C) evaporates too quickly to maintain adequate contact time with whitefly bodies. The residual concentration effect on leaf surfaces also increases phytotoxicity risk at higher temperatures.

If midday is your only available window and temperatures are below 80°F, use the minimum effective dilution (2 teaspoons per gallon), apply to a small test area first, and check for leaf burn within 24 hours. For heat waves when temperatures rarely drop below 85°F even in the morning, switch to passive physical methods including kaolin clay and reflective mulch until conditions improve.

How do I treat whiteflies naturally on tomatoes, peppers, and vegetables without harming them?

For food crops, both insecticidal soap and neem oil are OMRI-certified and safe for edible plants when applied correctly. Apply only during the early morning window (before 10 AM) when foliage is cool and dry. Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves where whitefly nymphs and eggs concentrate. Most gardeners spray only the tops of leaves and then wonder why treatments fail.

Wait 24 hours after application before harvesting. Both products are considered safe for consumption after they dry completely, but allowing full drying time is standard best practice for all edible crops including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, and herbs.

What natural whitefly treatment works best if I cannot spray at the right time?

When timing-sensitive liquid sprays are not feasible, three timing-independent natural methods provide ongoing protection. First, yellow sticky traps hung at plant canopy height capture adult whiteflies passively around the clock. Second, reflective silver mulch placed at the soil surface around plants disorients incoming whiteflies by reflecting UV light, with UC IPM-cited research showing up to 50% reduction in whitefly landing rates on vegetable crops.

Third, kaolin clay applied as a spray creates a physical particle coating that persists through heat and moderate rain. For medium-to-large gardens, releasing Encarsia formosa parasitic wasps provides autonomous biological control that works regardless of your spray schedule and eliminates daily timing dependence entirely.

Understanding when to treat whiteflies naturally gives every application its best possible chance of success. Early morning between 6:30 and 9:30 AM remains the single most reliable treatment window across all natural products and California climate conditions. When that window is unavailable, early evening between 5:30 and 7:30 PM is a strong alternative. Check temperature, UV index, and wind speed before every application. Commit to a 7 to 10 day treatment cycle and combine liquid sprays with passive physical methods in challenging conditions. With the right timing and the right products, natural whitefly management is consistently achievable without synthetic pesticides.

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